In a time when the origins of what we create hold increasing significance, the need for transparency in material sourcing and production becomes essential, yet in the fashion industry, these processes are often deliberately concealed. Sourcing and production are rarely made visible, leaving the impact of what is made largely unexamined. Tracing and understanding the positive or negative consequences of production, infuses the process with meaning. While this approach remains uncommon, it holds the potential to awaken awareness, inspire change, and foster a more thoughtful, conscious approach to creation. Lee emphasizes the need to connect what happens behind the scenes —within labs, studios, and communities of designers—and what is accessible to consumers. The disconnect between innovation and public understanding remains a significant barrier. Lee has shifted her focus toward imagining new modes of production entirely. She collaborates with biomaterial innovators, artists, and designers to explore systems that depart from conventional industry logic—systems not built around volume and scalability, but around slowness, intention, and care. 

Lee reflects on her own relationship with luxury fashion, acknowledging the magnetic pull of brands like Dior, Gucci, and Prada. “I wanted to partake in that dream that those brands were selling… plainly speaking, and for lack of a better word, they were just beautiful, I really wanted them.” But as she scrutinized this desire, it became clear that fashion could no longer be understood through the lens of mere aspiration. “I was reading Alec Reach’s book, The World is on Fire But We Are Still Buying Shoes. He was really vulnerable in his book about his own consumption and how he tackled the desire part of our ego and identity. Why do we want these things, and why do we want to be perceived a certain way? It’s a cyclical thing for fashion and people in fashion, wanting to be part of a group, to be accepted.” Lee's reflection on the book adds a layer of introspection on consumer desire.  If both brands and consumers fail to adopt sustainable practices, the effort will lose its significance. This underscores the critical need for both to embrace these new values if change is to take hold. Without widespread adoption, sustainable practices risk remaining isolated, unable to reach their full potential. True transformation will require both sides to actively engage, forging a future where mindful production and consumption are not just possible, but the norm. In confronting the role of branded objects in shaping cultural value, Lee challenges the very foundation of consumer culture. Through past works, including her exploration of surplus packaging and gifted luxury waste, she confronts the psychological weight we place on what we own.